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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 14 - October - 2009 at 18:30 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

guys i have a small ace hardware cheater pocket ref book that lists different sizes of steel.. but only pounds per foot. not capacity

found a generator trailer is made from 6x2x.25 stamped (formed)  C channel (book says 10.2 lbs per foot). told it's axle capacity was only 2000 lb..

wondering if the steel frame is able to carry more weight. the dimentions of the trailer are 112 long 55 wide (inches) had 1500 lb genset on it. trailer weight approx 500 lbs.( asking $300.00)

this is about $85-100.00 less then raw 6 inch c channel of the same size it is already bent; shaped; welded bonus only 2 1/2 hours away from me

like to dual axle 3500 lbs/ just for extra measure.. handle a 750 gal water tank

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Murf
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Posted: 15 - October - 2009 at 13:03 | IP Logged Quote Murf

You've got a bunch of questions and statements all mixed in there, but I'll see what I can do about answering them clearly.

1) "found a generator trailer is made from 6x2x.25 stamped (formed)  C channel (book says 10.2 lbs per foot)"
You're mixing apples and oranges, "C channel" is different, they mean the extruded shape, not a piece of flat stamped into a C shape, different creature all together.

2) "wondering if the steel frame is able to carry more weight. the dimentions of the trailer are 112 long 55 wide (inches) had 1500 lb genset on it. trailer weight approx 500 lbs."
I'd say it would carry ~3,000 to 4,000 pounds, but you'd want to 'box' (close in the open side) the frame with some more 1/4" flat bar first.

3) "like to dual axle 3500 lbs/ just for extra measure.. handle a 750 gal water tank"
Water is ~8.35pounds/(US)gallon so 750 gallons is ~6,300 pounds, another 500 pounds for the tank, plus 750 (easily) pounds for the trailer itself. Conservatively that puts you nearly a 1,000 pounds over weight.


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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 16 - October - 2009 at 06:00 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

well guess i'd better spend the money on real 6 inch c channel and 6000 lb axles rate it under 10k though hate dot numbers
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bobodu
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Posted: 16 - October - 2009 at 13:43 | IP Logged Quote bobodu

Sure wish I bought that tri-axle I saw for $500...

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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 03 - November - 2009 at 19:40 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

ok  here we go again what should i get

6 inch C channel 10.7 lbs per foot 2 inch flange 1/4 web

             or

6 inch C channel 13.5 per foot 2 1/8 i think with 5/16 web

there is onlu 150 difference on my water tank between 750 and 1025 gal.. might as well go big...

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bunkclimber
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Posted: 04 - November - 2009 at 03:39 | IP Logged Quote bunkclimber

the 6"dimension (channel on edge)is what gives it it's strength.The fact that you could go heavier in the wall thickness will only serve you bigger fuel bills towing it down the road.I have 2 trailers built from 6"channel,both 10.7lb/ft; one is 12K gvw and the other 14K gvw;both with dual 7K Dexter axles..no problems as of yet and they get used quite a lot.Just remember to put the frame/tongue bend UNDER the deck if you're gonna build one from scratch,and locate your axles properly on the frame for weight balance(most important)
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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 16 - January - 2010 at 11:29 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

well guys it's winter here woho.. truck blew transmission in decembers 22 inch blizard. still being repaired/ waiting for funds.. darn 30 -45 day pay period.

spent 1/2 day friday hot water pressure washing the 1035 gal tank.. what a mess. but at 93.50  instead of the 150 to suck it dry.. then wash it.. don't think so..

problem is there is some type of white fat/grease stringy still on the walls unless i climb in the man hole some how?? 15 inches diameter.. and im alittle bigger then that i tried to put the gun against it and blast 250 degree water all it did was move along the wall in water (wind) rows not breaking down.. hope to buy steel end of the month.. found new hose reel on ebay.. 250.00 for 3/4x175 foot reelcraft.. save about 35.00.. alittle better then catalog order..

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Davie Sprocket
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Posted: 16 - January - 2010 at 21:46 | IP Logged Quote Davie Sprocket

We had a water tank get something in it, smelled bad, had some white stuff growing in the tank, tried to clean it out same thing, ended up mixing bleach with water filled the tank to over full and then drained. Washed it out a couple of times. Still use it at the beach, but i cleaned and washed it with water from the town pump not the well, it has had well water in it for 5 years now. Our tank not that big though. Never did figure out what it was, although after that i made a J tube for the breather, maybe something got in from the little vent thing on top. Good luck, have fun building your trailer.

 

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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 27 - May - 2010 at 21:11 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

well started back on welding up trrailer tounge bed frame 10.5 lb  6 inch channel  with 9 lb 5 inch inside to box it added 3/4x3/16 flat stock to help fill gaps.. box in the whole side 12 foot.. did one side few weeks ago.. welder got a work out 30% capacity  had to "rest" for 20 minutes..  going to work on the otherside sat.. sfter mowing..

big question want to use one of those adjustable ball hitch couplers  (7 ton cap).. looks like  3 inch channel with holes (weld on). then the ball coupler has 2 bolts horizontaly and i can switch it to pintal if i need to.

does that mean weld a flat plate to the tounge then mount it or do i just weld the tounge directly to the back? the legs on the 5 inch channel are towards inside for strength.

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BuckShot
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Posted: 31 - May - 2010 at 11:52 | IP Logged Quote BuckShot

used 3/4x3/16 flat stock to help fill gaps??

What gaps?

I'm thinking short cuts, and cobble. A trailer frame should not have gaps. The C channel should be either angle cut for corners or notched and bent, Then butt welded if necessary to reach the goose neck.  There are hordes of trailer designs out there.

your building something very heavy when loaded with water and your going to tow it down the road.

I think pictures will help relieve some concerns of what your doing.

On the hitch, look at those trailers designed to do what your building yours for. If you see one of those at a rest stop. If the owner doesn't mind, take pictures of it. Then you know that works.
 Pictures tell a story better than words.
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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 31 - May - 2010 at 15:13 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

the frame of the bed is 6 inch channel..  the space i am filling is the beveled gap along the flange line the back of the flange is about 1/4 inch thick and the front is about 1/8 inch thick. i used 5 inch channel for the tounge all of the way back 12 foot bed.. and planning on a 5 foot tounge all one piece.

welds are 6 inches long every foot top and bottom of the flat stock.. actually tripple welds one on top then bottom flat stock then cover both so i don' t have to use tons of mig wire. a friend of mine used to build commercial truck beds and now repairs heavy equipment recomended this idea.

my ex is not going to give me back my camera... 

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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 08 - August - 2010 at 09:33 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

well next weekend i will finally be installing the cross members found some 12 inch channel and will add 1/4x6 flat stock to stiffen it up. along with 1/4x 4x4 tube stock to add a center tounge drawbar (support), since i've got a heavy trailer.. tried to make it light.... wonder if i add helium in the tires it will float..over the road. looks like this darn oval tank is costing me more then it would a cylinderical tank.. money and weight.. didn't figure that when i started the build last year..
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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 27 - August - 2010 at 21:50 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

well i have been posting in writting on the new site.. but been trying for several days to understand how to post, i followed all of the directions that were written on picture posts.. i am able to email pictures.. maybe somebody that is alot more computer literate.. cam pm me so i can email my pictures..
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