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Subject Topic: Small Tracked Loader Post ReplyPost New Topic
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ctimbs
Machine Builder


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Joined: 06 - February - 2006
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Posts: 84
Posted: 23 - March - 2009 at 12:52 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

The main beam is .25 wall 4X3 square tubing.
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shop-rat
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Posted: 23 - March - 2009 at 16:25 | IP Logged Quote shop-rat

  We had a small dozer on the farm (old gas IH).  I do not remember much about it, but I do know that it had a large leaf spring across the front.  Do the small dozers ever have provision for the tracks to articulate?  Or are they kept simple, like on a skid steer?

  I have always wanted to build a ~D2 sized track layer, so I am interested in this build.  I have always envisioned using a (narrowed?) full floater truck rear end as the drive (with an airlocker of course!).  I would then use the just the outer hub assemblies on the front corners.  Track rollers would be based on trailer hubs.  Sprockets could be CNC flame cut.  Track Chain make/buy??? Use D2 parts?    mark



Edited by shop-rat on 23 - March - 2009 at 16:29
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Whitworthsocket
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Home Town, State/Province: Western Australia and Thailand
Posted: 23 - March - 2009 at 20:46 | IP Logged Quote Whitworthsocket

Quote: shop-rat

  We had a small dozer on the farm (old gas IH).  I do not remember much about it, but I do know that it had a large leaf spring across the front.  Do the small dozers ever have provision for the tracks to articulate?  Or are they kept simple, like on a skid steer?

  I have always wanted to build a ~D2 sized track layer, so I am interested in this build.  I have always envisioned using a (narrowed?) full floater truck rear end as the drive (with an airlocker of course!).  I would then use the just the outer hub assemblies on the front corners.  Track rollers would be based on trailer hubs.  Sprockets could be CNC flame cut.  Track Chain make/buy??? Use D2 parts?    mark



I would have thought that there would be D2's available to Buy rather than making one.
We had A D2-5U on our newland farm in the southwest of Western Australia.
It was a great machine for the conditions.
Also had a kerosene Cat 10
Regards Whitworthsocket


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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:04 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

Finally getting some work done on this.  I am going to order the rest of the steel tomorrow.

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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:04 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:05 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:05 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:06 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

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ctimbs
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:16 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

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Superfast
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Posted: 21 - April - 2010 at 23:39 | IP Logged Quote Superfast

Awesome, Good to see this project come back to life. I am
still contemplating building a mini dozer using a similar
track setup so I am very interested in seeing how this all
comes together.

I like the boogie wheel setup, I was originally planning on
having the boogie wheels ride directly on the chain and use
guide plates to keep it inline. I may have to change that
idea and go with something similar to what you have here.

Scott

Edited by Superfast on 21 - April - 2010 at 23:41
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ff14007
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Posted: 22 - May - 2010 at 13:43 | IP Logged Quote ff14007

you've done some very nice work so far, just remember it takes time to build things rite! keep up the good work and keep us posted!

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hold my beer and watch this!!!!
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CadCrafter
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Posted: 24 - May - 2010 at 22:14 | IP Logged Quote CadCrafter

Cool build! Looks great, I have been kicking the idea around for a small crawler for a couple of years. What kind of software are you using for your drawings? Keep us all posted i look forward to see this tractor progress
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Dawg
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Posted: 25 - May - 2010 at 12:04 | IP Logged Quote Dawg

dude, that's the same exact right to the color cleats my dozer is going to have.

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bunkclimber
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Posted: 27 - May - 2010 at 06:33 | IP Logged Quote bunkclimber

I dont wanna sound overcritical of your build,but rotate your motors 180'deg to allow more clearance for the fittings and hoses(fittings forward,in front of motor)The crossbars should be braced to also pick up the lower sides of the track frames,simply bolting to the top of the track bar will allow much twisting movement.Maybe make an additional brace to go just behind the front idler,bolting to the lower inside of the track frame and then to the crossbar.Most skidsteers have at least 6"of frame height to keep the frame from twisting..I'd be leery of the rect.tube laid flat across the frames,needs more box height to keep it from bending later.I don't want to sound like a critic to you,I'd hate to see you build this machine and have a disaster later.I'd try to buy some extra track bottom rollers as well,might be hard to find the same ones later on when they need replacement.Keep us posted with your build,nice job!!
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CadCrafter
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Posted: 27 - May - 2010 at 23:37 | IP Logged Quote CadCrafter

It’s always easier to see problems when the engineering is already completed! With that said I think you are going to have problem tearing your track up with the only contact point at the center welded to your drive chain. Were it contacts the boogies it may hold together fairly well but your front and rear sprockets will leave the pad open for damage if the ends are loaded by say a rock or debris only contacting one side. Adding a hinge points in between the pad towards the outside edge would be a great help on distributing the load across large sections of the track. My 2 cents…………. Keep the pictures coming you will end up with a great crawler I am sure!!

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ctimbs
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Posted: 03 - June - 2010 at 20:01 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

Thanks for the feedback! 

I thaught about the twisting issue for a long time and its hard to see in the pictures but there is a .5" x 3" x 5" plate welded to the track main beam and each one is double bolted to the cross tubes.  I think this will holdup to the twisting forces of this small machine but I wll see if I can get a gusset on underneath them to bulk it up even more. 

Cad Crafter - Can you explain a little more about your suggestion??  I understand the issue with the front and rear idler sprockets but I dont understand your "Adding a hinge points in between the pad towards the outside edge" comment? 

I am also thinking about epoxying some rubber pads inside the cleats to reduce the ware on the pads??  Still tossing arround this idea but the more I think about it the more I like it.

THANKS!!

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CadCrafter
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Posted: 03 - June - 2010 at 22:52 | IP Logged Quote CadCrafter

Here is a track assembly with the side panel removed for viewing. I have the pivots as large pin and bushing assemblies. The drive sprockets are lase cut.
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CadCrafter
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Posted: 03 - June - 2010 at 22:55 | IP Logged Quote CadCrafter

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CadCrafter
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Posted: 03 - June - 2010 at 23:01 | IP Logged Quote CadCrafter

Just a couple of pictures, I am sure your build will suit your needs fine. Keep up the good work.
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ctimbs
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Posted: 03 - June - 2010 at 23:14 | IP Logged Quote ctimbs

Ok.  I see what you mean. 

When I initially designed this I wanted to make it with as little machineing/special cut parts as possible.  The 80 double pitch conveyor chain is off the shelf and the trackpads are just C channel cut to length then welded on.  So worstcase if I ruin a track it is $150 of material and a couple days labor to make another one. (now that I have the fixture setup)

Thanks for the input!!!

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